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Tuesday, 20 May 2014

Day 32: Lake Como to Garmisch. Five countries in one day

I had planned to head to Garmish via St Moritz, but without any internet, and relying on my phone to look up the road conditions pages which were all in German, I couldn’t confirm 100% that all the roads would be open.  So we had to take the boring safe route and go back out the way we came in, and up the freeways. That meant those narrow roads from Hades back along Lake Como.
To makes things worse, Sygic carked it that morning, and there was no way I was able to get it going again.  So we had to resort to the old fashioned way: paper maps and road signs.  Now this can be a bit tricky when your paper map covers the entire continental Europe, and road signs aren’t in English and don’t always clearly depict the direction you need to go. Getting back to Como was simple enough, if extremely hairy.  But in Como, the signs for the A9 said Milano (southbound), and didn’t say Lugano (northbound).  So rather than risk it I decided to keep going on rather than just heading to the A9 and seeing where we ended up.  This meant we went all around the outskirts of Como.  I decided in the end to just head to the A9.  Worse case was at least we’d be on it, and if heading the wrong direction would just have to turn around when we were able to.  As it turned out, this was the correct course and we were thankfully on the motorway heading north.  The views from up high over the lakes are just spectacular, even today when the weather was overcast and hazy. As the paper maps were proving a little dubious, I turned to back up navigation, Google Maps.  This worked well enough for the most part, even though it chewed through $30 worth of overseas mobile data.  Still that would have been what some decent maps cost would have cost.
Smooth sailing however still eluded us, and a few more dramas lay in wait.  One of the motorways was completely closed for 10-20km, but that was not too much drama as I could ignore the nagging google and just follow the old original highway, which eventually joined up with the motorway past the closed section. 
There was another section though which had me completely baffled as google told me to turn off the motorway, took us 25km along the back roads where we came to a blocked road with diversions.  We followed the diversions as far as we could, but ended up losing them.  Then google said we had to go back all the way we came, back onto the motorway were we left it, and then continue on again.  Weird.  But at least we saw this huge table and chairs at the side of the road, which are actually spread around the internet as being a horse shelter a farmer built as he was refused council permission.  Not true according to snopes.com, through the huge table and chairs do exist.

So, between getting into the car in Italy, and some 6 or 7 hours later getting out of the car in Germany, we’d driven through Switzerland, into Schaan, Lichtenstein, back into Switzerland, backwards and forwards between Austria and Germany a few times, passing through the San Barnardino pass with superb views, and a quick hot dog stop (it was the only thing on the menu at the food kiosk that I knew what it was.  Which is a bit weird given nobody knows what’s really in hot dogs…)

Anyway, however we got here, the scenery was magic and Garmisch is beautiful. We were greeted by our lovely host Irene, shown around our lovely and neat apartment just near the middle of town, then headed off for a walk and explore.

The lass in the tourist shop was the most helpful I’ve come across to date, and we had the remainder of our trip just about sorted in no time!  Then we dropped into Zum Wildschutz where I had schweinshaxe and apple strudel.  I am so stuffed I’m in pain.  I’ll be planning to do a bit of mountain hiking the next few days I think just to make up for that meal!

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