Day 48: Au revoir Rome, ciao Paris. Saving the best till last

Our last day in Rome.
It is always a little sad as I leave one place I have quickly grown to love, and yet of course exciting to think that I’ll soon be somewhere new.
Today we basically had a spare day free of any planned activities since the juggling from the closed Colosseum meant that we had missed going to Naples and Pompeii.  Naples couldn’t have been an option today as there was no chance we would be back in time to make our evening flight to Paris.  So today was an opportunity to sleep in and just take it easy. And today we did just that.
After our 10:00AM checkout, we headed off to Termini station to drop off our luggage. Seven weeks we’d travelled through Europe without any address tags on our luggage, but now I was feeling that my luck had run out, and I had best find some before we left our luggage in the left luggage.
There are a lot of shops at Termini.  Two levels of shops.  The lower level included a McDonalds alongside part of the old Servian wall.  I just love finding these old city walls, and this one is from the 4^th Century BC.  History plus.
But continuing on the search for luggage tags; most shops if they even understood what I was asking for did not have the damn things.  Not even the sure bet bag shop.  There was even a full on supermarket down here where at least I found a combination luggage lock so we could lock up the hand luggage, but alas no tags.
In the end I gave up and checked our bags in tagless and headed back upstairs.  I bought our tickets for the airport train ride this evening, despite those pesky “ticket helpers”, and then headed off down the streets of Rome looking for somewhere to plonk and relax.  The simple prerequisites being drinks and shade.
We sat down at a nearby restaurant but after 10 minutes without service, gave up and moved on. We decided to walk to Trevi Fountain again, especially as I hadn’t yet tossed my obligatory coins in. Half way there, wouldn’t you know it, we came across another fountain.  Rome is the city of fountains.

Day 47: Vatican City

Today is Vatican Day.  You know, because more Roman Catholicism.  Anyway, it’s not realistic to visit Rome and not visit the Vatican. Our tickets were for 9:30, and I’d organised the train tickets the night before so we headed straight down to the metro station about 8:00.  That should be heaps of time.
There are only two train lines in the underground in Rome, so it’s pretty straightforward getting around on the train, except this was peak hour and the platform was crazily crowded.  We had to let the first train go, and managed to just squeeze onto the second.  I’d never seen anything like it, except maybe in those videos of trains in Japan where they have people to push the commuters onto the carriages.  The platform and train were literally packed solid with people.

Day 46: A Roman Holiday

OK, let’s try this Colosseum thing again…

Walking there, I noticed what looked like a key embedded into the road between the cobblestones.  This caused me to pause, which was very lucky, as a bird shit then exploded on the road just in front of me.  So stopping to look at this key prevented me from getting bird shat upon.  This has to be lucky right?  It's luck if a bird does poo on you, so it has to be even luckier if one goes to poo on you and misses, yes?
We got down at the Colosseum just after 8:30 and yes, it was open.  There were queues but they weren’t too bad.  Wait, once inside the queues continue through the first corridor and around out of sight down around the curve; but really they weren’t too long and moved quickly.  As a bonus, Michelle as an EU citizen got in for free!  So that bird pooing incident was indeed lucky!
We grabbed our audio guides and started our tour.  I tried to get onto the underground tour, which would have taken us into the areas beneath the Colosseum, but there were no English tours left available for today.  Something to organise in advance for next time.

Day 45: Dead monks + fountains + ruins + cats = Rome

We got up nice and early and headed down to the Colosseum ready for the 8:30 ticket office opening.  You know, to avoid the queues I’d heard so much about. As we approached, we could see huge crowds.  But they weren’t at the Colosseum.  Instead they were lining the streets waving red, white and green flags.  There was only a small group of people lined up at the Colosseum, and the gates were closed.

Day 44: Florence for one more day. Palazzo Pitti.

Last day in Florence today.  It’s always amazing how after just a few days you feel at home in a place, comfortable walking around without getting lost.  Such a sharp contrast to when you first step out of the train station or airport into a new city and you can’t even work out which way is north.

Markets were setting up in the streets, and the Ponte Vecchio was crowded even at this early hour.

The Palazzo Pitti, however seemed thankfully quiet, and no queues at all at the ticket office.  Tickets in hand; you need two tickets for this one, one for the palace, and another for the garden.  The garden ticket also gets you into the costume gallery, back inside the palace.  Yeah, I don’t get it either apart from it cost 23 euro all up.

Anyway, this is one pretty amazing gallery, and takes quite a while to get through.  We spent about 3 hours and covered all the art gallery, but I was suffering pretty severe gallery fatigue for the last 5 or so rooms.  I re-entered one of the rooms, and even though I’d only been in it 5 minutes beforehand, I couldn’t remember a single painting on the wall.  My head was full of Tuscan and Florentine art and I couldn’t fit any more in, it was coming back out of my ears. Still, it was all amazing and on a longer stay in Florence a couple days between galleries would solve this problem.

So I got my fix full of Botticelli, Lippi, Raphael, Van Dyke, and even some Rubens.  No pics allowed, I found out after taking a picture of the ceiling.  Which didn't turn out....

Day 43: Florence, David, crypts and relics

The Accademia is right across the road from our apartment.  We got up, went out our door, went in theirs and around the corner and... Wow. Michelangelo’s David.  Wow, wow and wow.  You can just stare at him for ages.  The detail.  The stature, imposing, glowing marble. This is real art.  To think that somebody could extract that from a slab of second hand marble.
We spent a good 1.5 to 2 hours here at the Accademia admiring the fantastic paintings, some dating back to the 1400’s. The room of plaster casts which were the precursors to construction of the marble statues also was amazing.  The Bartolini statues are ethereally beautiful. But David is a religious experience.  Watching people watching David is great too. There was also a musical instrument exhibition, which had cellos from the 1600s! And what on earth is a Guitar pianola!?! But no photos were allowed…
Afterwards we walked past the Duomo where I had planned to climb up to the cupola, but the queues were insane, presumably because today is a Saturday.  Looks like I’ll miss out.  Can’t say I’m that disappointed though, but it would have been good to have done it.
The Piazza Duomo was teeming with people, heaps more than any other day.  Even the queue to get into the Duomo was huge.  This thing holds 20,000 people so I’m not sure why the queue was extending right across the piazza. We walked on to the Basillica de Museo di Santa Croce.

Day 42: Florence and the Uffizi

I’m very excited this morning as we are going to the Uffizi. But I’m a bit annoyed too as I had sussed out that I got scammed on the tickets.
To see the Uffizi, you want to grab the tickets beforehand to avoid the long queues. I’d seen the queues for the Accademia so was glad that I had booked them online. But googling brings up www.uffizi.com, which you would think is the official site. It isn’t. The official site is www.polomuseale.firenze.it. This meant that I ended up paying this tricky booking site 10 euro more than if I had gone to the correct site. Not a big deal, but I was annoyed with myself for getting mislead. To make matters worse, now I was also a little concerned if I would be able to get in showing the voucher on my phone, as there was no way to print it. So I decided it was best to head down early in case of any problems.
My worries were for nothing as it all went smoothly; I passed my phone through the counter and received proper tickets (and my phone) back no hassles at all.
The Uffizi Gallery is extremely high on the wow factor. I loved this place. So much art. We were in there for some 4 hours, and it still felt a little rushed. And Birth of Venus! Birth of Venus just sent chills through me. It’s truly a beautiful painting. I just loved the Botticelli’s and the Lippi’s with a passion. The faces they paint are simply beauty captured on canvas. Botticelli’s La Primavera, and Annunciation; Lippi’s Madonna with Child and Two Angels were favourites, as was Gerard van Honthorst’s Adoration of the Child.
The rest of the art in there is also truly amazing. A huge collection of altar pieces and religious art. I rename the museum the Madonna with Child, the Martyrdom of Saint Sebastian and the House of Penises, as they were the predominate themes running throughout the gallery. The later envisioned through sculpture rather than painting. Ta;ling of the sculptures, they were amazing too; a favourite would be Sleeping Ariadne. The way that the marble was carved in such detail, including the folds of cloth.

Day 41: Italy just gets better and better - Florence!

We met Paolo at our apartment at 7:30AM for checkout.  Our train was at 8:30, and it was about a ten minute walk, but I like to be early and not risk missing a connection.  There were no hassles with checkout, so we were soon lugging our luggage down the three flights of stairs, and dragging it all up to the train station.

They had a really cheap and nice café shop at the station, which was great after having to pay upwards of 5 euro for coffee!  And they had café ginseng!  For 1.50!!

Day 40: Totally Love Venice!

Today was Michelle’s birthday.  What a perfect place to spend a birthday! After getting the train into Venezia Santa Lucia, we saw the Orient Express awaiting departure at the platform.  That train looks like a must do experience, but when I looked it up online afterwards, it only travelled from Venice to Paris.  Not sure why it's still called the Orient Express anymore?

Day 39: By lunchtime we'll be in Venice

A commute day today.  Boring.  Well not too boring.  I mean I could be sitting at home, or working…
Germany is a very scenic country to drive through.  From Salzburg, the countryside slowly changed from the mountains, to verdant green countryside.
Within not much more than 2 hours we’d dropped off the car and were at the airport.  Very early.  I prefer to be early at airports, but this was very early. And airports aren’t the cheapest of places to eat either.  Anyway, they had my favourite weisswurst so I took advantage of my last chance to have this, and also grabbed a nice huge weissbeer, even though it was about 9 in the morning.  I wasn’t the only one either.

Day 32: Lake Como to Garmisch. Five countries in one day

I had planned to head to Garmish via St Moritz, but without any internet, and relying on my phone to look up the road conditions pages which were all in German, I couldn’t confirm 100% that all the roads would be open.  So we had to take the boring safe route and go back out the way we came in, and up the freeways. That meant those narrow roads from Hades back along Lake Como.
To makes things worse, Sygic carked it that morning, and there was no way I was able to get it going again.  So we had to resort to the old fashioned way: paper maps and road signs.  Now this can be a bit tricky when your paper map covers the entire continental Europe, and road signs aren’t in English and don’t always clearly depict the direction you need to go. Getting back to Como was simple enough, if extremely hairy.  But in Como, the signs for the A9 said Milano (southbound), and didn’t say Lugano (northbound).  So rather than risk it I decided to keep going on rather than just heading to the A9 and seeing where we ended up.  This meant we went all around the outskirts of Como.  I decided in the end to just head to the A9.  Worse case was at least we’d be on it, and if heading the wrong direction would just have to turn around when we were able to.  As it turned out, this was the correct course and we were thankfully on the motorway heading north.  The views from up high over the lakes are just spectacular, even today when the weather was overcast and hazy. As the paper maps were proving a little dubious, I turned to back up navigation, Google Maps.  This worked well enough for the most part, even though it chewed through $30 worth of overseas mobile data.  Still that would have been what some decent maps cost would have cost.

Day 31: Lake Como - Lenno, Tremezzo, Bellagio, Menaggio, Varenna

Today we had a good long sleep in after all that walking yesterday.  It was about 11:30 before we left and drove into Lenno. At Lenno, we walked along the promenade to the jetty and went to get the boat ticket, but arrived just as the boat was arriving.  I didn’t have enough cash on me for the tickets, and I thought the ticket man was saying that the EFTPOS was not working.  I asked where the nearest bancomat was and he said "distance."   So I walked back to town, asked in a restaurant where the bancomat was and headed off to get some cash.

Day 30: Ode to Joy, George Clooney, Padme and James Bond.

I got up early today as I wanted to try and catch our church bells playing Ode to Joy, like they did last night.  But I had no luck.  I think somebody in the belfry was watching and spiting me. :-(

We walked along the Green Way from above our apartment into Lenno.  The Green Way is a walking path, which for a good portion of its length follows the Antica Strada Regina, an ancient road along the western shore of Lake Como.  Rebuilt by the Romans and used as their main route between the north and south of the alps, through the ages seeing the passing of traders and armies, and now tourists and dog walkers.

Day 29: Leave the car behind when travelling to Italy.

Breakfast at the hotel again.  Same fare as yesterday.  They should alternate days or something.  Anyway, again not that hungry, so why am I even talking about it?
Grindelwald put on is best weather for our departure.  The skies were so blue and the air so crisp; I could see every little detail up on the mountains and the glacier.