Bridge over the River Kwai

We joined our bus outside the hotel for our River Kwai trip at about 7:00am, enough time for a quick breakfast in the buffet. Out trip was with four other people, all from Queensland and they’d just been to Phuket and were stopping in Bangkok on their way back home.

As we waited outside a hotel to pick up the last two travelers, we watched people heading off to work, stopping at a roadside kitchen to pick up their breakfast. Bangkok is huge and I can’t remember when we exactly had left the city and were in the rural areas of Thailand. We passed huge trucks bringing in sugar cane to sugar factories and stopped at a petrol station for a rest on the way up. I went to the toilet, observing a sign indicating if you were urinating, then head to the left. This took me outside the toilet, where the urinal was on the external wall!

Luang Prabang all laid back

Today was our last day in Laos :(
We did a small morning tour of the city with our guide; visiting the King’s Palace which was now a museum. No photos were allowed inside, indeed we had to place our cameras, hats and backpacks into lockers before entering. Inside were all sorts of artifacts from around Laos, as well as the preserved Kings Palace, including his bedroom, sitting chambers, welcoming chambers with detailed paintings depicting Lao life on the walls. His throne and various suits and swords were also on display. A very interesting place.

We then visited a temple bejeweled in glass mosaic; green on the outside and red on the inside.

Luang Prabang and Pak Ou Caves

Up early today for a 6:00am pickup. We watched the monks doing their dawn alms collection. Very beautiful to watch. A large family had come to give alms and they were the centre of attention with lots of tourists taking their photo, even before the monks arrived.

The monks came in single file in their saffron robes accepting rice, bananas and other food without acknowledgement. When their bowls were full, or just at their choosing they take some food out of their bowls and give it to some poor children who were standing at the side of the procession.

Pakse

Today was a transit day. Our guide wanted to pick us up at 8:00 in the morning for an 11:45 flight. This would have left us sitting at the airport for nearly 4 hours. When challenged the night before, he said it was something to do with the airport, and not knowing enough I didn't argue it with him. But after checking with the hotel desk, I decided to leave him a message and we would make our own way to the airport.

I was up when he arrived so told him directly that we would just catch a tuktuk to the airport ourselves. He said to leave it with him, and a phone call later he said he had a driver arranged that would take us to the airport at 10:00. Much better.

Don Khong Island

Mone picked us up from the hotel and dropped us off at Talat Suo Market. We had a quick wander through and bought a few woven scarves. Then it was to the airport for our Air Laos flight to Pakse.

Vientiane

We went for a morning walk in Vientiane; the city is quite nice, small and relaxed. We walked along the Mekong River, passing river front restaurants with lots of tasty looking BBQ treats on sale: chicken, quail, fish and vegetables. We also saw live toads and large prawns in pots ready for cooking. I did a currency exchange of US$100, getting just under 9000kip at the Bank deCommerce. The Lao Bank further in town would have given a slightly better rate.

We walked past all sorts of shops, bought a few items from a minimart, saw laundry shops quoting 800kip for a kilo and stopped at an internet café and caught up on all of our e-mail. The speed and being able to access g-mail was a luxury after Myanmar.

Yangon

No touring today. After our 5:30 breakfast we met up with Phyo for the boat trip back to Nwang Shye, watching the sunrise along the way; a beautiful sight passing the many fishermen up early working hard to catch their fish.

Back in town we loaded up the car as the monks on their morning collection walked past.

The flight to Yangon took 45 minutes, passing over many mountain ranges and huge dams.

On arrival we were saved from losing our baggage by a kindly airport staffer as we assumed baggage collection was inside the terminal. Instead we had to go through a door onto the tarmac to collect our bags.

Inle Lake

A more relaxed start to the day today, though I was awake long before the beautiful sunrise which I watched from the balcony over the water.

After a huge breakfast of bacon, scrambled eggs, coleslaw, tomato, toast and bagel with excellent coffee(I’d heard a lot about Laos coffee, but if was going to have to be damn good to be better than the Myanmar coffee I got everyday), Phyo met us at 9:00 for day of touring of Inle Lake by Long Boat.

We cruised up the largest creek feeding the lake which was a beautiful soft blue colour, presumably from the limestone in the surrounding mountains. We passed many people making their way to the markets, leading water buffalo, kids walking to school and monks on the riverbanks.

Pindaya Caves and Inle Lake

Up early again, though getting later each day Mimi met us and took us to the airport. We passed many monks along the way doing their morning alms collection.

The flight to Heho only took 20 minutes, and we were met inside the airport by Meo (though not quite sure if that is her name, let alone spelt correctly!). She helped us collect our bags and took us outside to meet our guide Phyo (pronounced Peo, rhymes with Joe) and our driver Boney. We had an interesting and long drive through the countryside, including a stop in a small village at a roadside café where we had chick pea fritters. A little chicken clucked around under our tables eating up the dropped crumbs.

Mandalay and Mingun

Today we had the luxury of a little sleep-in. We watched the early morning mist blanketing the old palace grounds from our hotel window, which gave us excellent views over Mandalay. We had breakfast at the hotel, which had a huge assortment of food to choose from. I tried a Myanmar pancake which was quite nice. Today we were heading to Mingun, and Mimi met us in the hotel foyer. Mimi told us today that Myanmar is pronounced Mee-ah-mah. Similarly Mandalay is pronounced Man-a-lay.

Mandalay, Amarapura and Ava

It would have been perfect to stay another day or two or three in Bagan. Bagan was beautiful with so much to see and do. Soe told us about Mt Popa; how it was used as a hill station and that it is jungle with many animals including monkeys to be seen. We will have to visit there next time we come to Myanmar.

This morning the sunrise was stunning. We could see the warm crimson glow on the stupas. One large golden stupa was especially magnificent. The fogged car windows didn't faze our driver and we arrived quickly at the airport.

Bagan - a city of temples

Today was a very early start, up at 4:00am. We had a quick breakfast at 4:45 then met Tun at 6:15 for the early morning drive to the airport. A bus took us out to our Air Bagan flight, a Fokker 100. We were welcomed on board and were soon in high in the air flying above the clouds.

As we approached Bagan, we could see multitudes of temples from the air scattered around the fields as well as on the mountains across the river. This was the dry season and many of the streams and smaller rivers were dry. The river also was very low with large sand banks exposed.

The plane landed onto a wet tarmac; a light rain had been falling earlier at 6:30am. Our new guide, Soe welcomed us and organised our baggage collection for us and we were soon in our car. After a short drive from the airport we stopped at our first temple. We got our first lesson in Bagan history and temples as we walked around Izza Gona temple. For example you can estimate the era of the Buddha statues: if the ears were touching the shoulders then it was likely built after 1100AD.

Arrival in Yangon

We flew into Bangkok airport whilst it was still dark; a full moon following us on our flight from Melbourne. The lights of Bangkok like jewels cast to the horizon.

Bangkok airport is huge; and new only being completed 2 years ago. We made our way to transit as our baggage was checked through to Yangon.

The distance between our arrival gate and departure gate was about one kilometre! Michelle took advantage of the many travelators. I’d eaten so much on the plane that I needed the exercise: having eaten two meals during a time that I would normally have been sleeping! Our first in-flight meal was Thai Fish Balls in spicy green curry, delicious whilst Michelle had the chicken pasta. For breakfast we both went for the cheesy omelette.

We had a very brief look in a newsagent, but I had no baht on me so I had to give the tempting salty durian chips a miss. We retired to gate E2A to await our flight to Yangon.

Roulos Temples Group

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Today was most regrettably our last day, though we were very much looking forward to getting home and seeing our family, especially James who we missed immensely. We slept in a little and did some more packing before catching a ride in the Tuk Tuk with Savin to the School of the Arts of Children of Asia. The school was formed to teach the younger children traditional music and dance and the customs of Cambodia, which came very close to being wiped out by the Khmer Rouge. We explored the small roadside market outside the school while we waited for it to open, but due to the holidays, the school was closed today. Disappointing, but it leaves us something different to see the next time we visit!

We headed into town and had a geat bacon and egg breakfast at The Ivy, and then travelled through the market again before catching the Tuk Tuk back to the guest house.

The tuk tuk ride this time was an unforgettable experience as we were clipped by a 4WD overtaking us. Savin managed to keep it under control, but it was quite frightening as I had visions of Liam lossing his fingers as the Landcruiser clipped the edge as it went past. Of course he didn't stop, and we got back to the guest house fine, if only a little shaken. The damage to the tuk tuk didn't seem too bad, and I'm sure Savin was able to fix it up like new.

Oiyee and I managed to squeeze in a few more temples before we had to head to the airport for home. Savin took us to the Roulos Group in the tuk tuk, first visiting the Bakong.

There appeared to be a lot of celebration going on in the markets near the temples, with lots of music, people and colour. We explored the temple and the Buddhist monastery beside the temple. Near the rear of the temple was a beautiful small girl and her very shy friend or brother who were sitting underneath an elephant statue escaping the heat of the sun.

I found it hard to get a photo of the young boy, but the girl was quite camera happy. She insisted on referring to me as madam, despite my best efforts but she was quite endearing.

Last stop on the way back was Preah Ko, which really showed their age. The nandi bull statues in front of the temple looked like they had been there every day of the thousand years since they were first carved.

Back at the guest house, we had some lunch and Liam was especially honoured, being invited to lunch at Hun's. He shared some rice with them, but declined on the dried fish. I only hope he declined politely. His being able to share lunch was a delightful opportunity for him, and he will remember his Cambodian friends for ever. I finally found my perfect souvenirs, being some excellently carved apsaras, carved by Monkoe Yann on sale right here at the guest house. He also gave Liam a carved elephant, which he treasures greatly.

We said our goodbyes to all the wonderful staff at Peace of Angkor. We truly had a great time in Siem Reap, and the people at the guest house were simply all wonderful.

Baphuon, Phimeanakas, Eastern Mebon, Pre Rup, Banteay Kdei, Apsara Dancing

Another early start today, both to try and beat the worst of the heat, and also as today was the day we were going on our elephant ride. This was something that Liam had been looking forward to before we even left Melbourne.

We arrived at the Baphuon inside Angkor Tom by about 6:30 in the morning, and the place was fairly deserted. It was quite mystical to see the sun rising behind the trees and slowly warming up the temple stones.

The Baphuon was undergoing restoration works, so was closed off, however we could walk around the grounds and explore a bit before walking over to The Phimeanakas, seeing a huge centipede on the ground that must have been at least a foot long!.

The Phimeanakas was a smaller temple, but still quite tall and with extremely steep steps. We carefully climbed to the top, soaking in the views across the trees before gingerly climbing back down and heading off for the Ride on an Elephant to the Bayon.

We walked across the Elephant Terrace, discovering some ant-lions living in the dust between the path stones. I remember them when I lived in Sydney, but had never seen them before in Melbourne, so they were something new for Liam to experience, who had great fun setting off their little traps.

We were soon in the queue for the Elephant Ride, and after buying our ticket we were ushered up onto the platform and onto the back of the biggest elephant working today. It was a great experience, even though the elephant sometimes had a mind of it's own, diverting to grab some durians and coconuts that had been discarded along the path. At one stage he started rearing his head, but our 'driver' managed to get him back under control, and us safely to the departure point at the Bayon.

We made a quick stop at the Thommanon which we saw on the first day, as Oiyee had not seen this temple yet. We then continued onto the Eastern Mebon. it was only about 9:30 in the morning, but as usual, the temperature had soared, adn these temles were very much out in the open and subject to the full heat of the day.

Each corner of the temple was marked with a statue of an elephant, and the inner temple consisted of brick towers with intricately carved lintles over their doors, and again, the views across the countrside was spectacular.>

Pre Rup was in some ways similar to Eastern Mebon, with the tall brick towers with detailed doorways. Steep steps led up to the central towers, with views across the tops of the jungle trees.

Last temple for today was Banteay Kdei. The entrance was through a smaller version of the gates of Angkor Tom, and a small market was along the walkway, selling much needed drinks and coconuts, as well as silks and souvineers. Don't bother with the books, they'll have pages missing.

The temple was on a smaller scale than others, but very pretty with a colourful altar to Buddha just inside, and apsaras adourning the walls. The jungle trees were also thick around the temple, offering a little shade here and there.

On leaving, Liam picked up a band of followers, Liam being as much a novelty to the locals as we found the temples a novelty to us!

We stopped in at a number of the larger souvineer shops along the road back to Siem Reap, but couldn't find that perfect momento of Cambodia that I was looking for. These shops were also very expensive, geared more to the 5 star guests who normally come in the cooler months. Once again, Liam was the main attraction, with all of the staff flocking around him and giving him a huge ego!

We stopped at the Red Piano for lunch, and I had to try a Tomb Raider cocktail. It was OK, and the food was excellent.

We returned to the guest house to shower and freshen up, which of course was proven a waste of time once we got back out in the sun. We caught a Tuk Tuk ride with Savin into town to get a massage from the Blind Massage. The girls went first while Liam and I walked the streets exploring further, then us boys had our turn. Extremely painful, that Japanese Shiatsu massage, but we felt much better afterwards. Even Liam got the full treatment!

We had dinner at the Bayon Restaraunt, which had a huge smorgasboard of food to chose from, which was all excellent. My only regret was I couldn't eat more!

During the evening there was an excellent show of traditional dancing and music. The Apsara dancing is classical, and very graceful and enjoyable to watch. There was also some dancing showing catching fish, which was very amusing with the interplays between the boys and girls. The peacock dancing too was also very good.

Angkor Wat Sunrise, Ta Prom, Preah Khan, Tonle Sap

Today was our earliest start; we had arranged to see Angkor Wat at sunrise so it was out of bed by 5:00am. Kong arrived about 5:30, and it was already getting light. I was getting quite concerned that we would get there after the sun had risen. Even though the sky was filling with pinks and crimsons, we did manage to arrive at the causeway to Angkor Wat long before the sun peeked from behind the temples silhouette.

There was certainly no shortage of people waiting the rising of the sun above the temple, and we set ourselves up at a couple of points to capture the sunrise. I played around with various settings on the camera and took many photos. Thank goodness for digital!

We then jumped into the car, sweat beading despite the fact the sun had just risen and drove to the Bayon to capture the faces with the morning glow. The pinkish/orangish hue gave the cold stone a lovely warmth and I couldn't believe I could be saturated at 6:30 in the morning!

We arrived then at Ta Prom shortly after 7:00 in the morning, with the sun's morning shafts filtering through the Banyon and Fig trees. As we approached the temple, a group of young boys came running out, one dragging a small car on a string that had been made from a bit of wood with soft drink bottle lids for wheels.

We spent an hour exploring the temple again, finding our way around easily and taking out time enjoying just being here. A huge orange legged spider rested on it's web near the temple wall, and children played amongst the arches.

A young boy and girl were sitting outside a temple door, fallen stones lying around the base of a huge Fig Tree. I managed to take a couple photos before the boy saw me. Once I was spotted, he immediately rattled off 5.000 riel, 4.000 riel, 3.000 riel, 2.000 riel, 1.000 riel. I didn't even get a chance to haggle the price as it dropped.

I paid instead with a smile and some friendly chatting as they lit some incense for the small broken Buddha statue inside the temple corridor.

Outside the temple in the market, a group of young children were playing music on various instruments and singing happily.

We listened for a while, then again were off through the West Gate of Angkor Tom, and this time onto Preah Khan, or the Sacred Sword.

We paid one of the temple police to guide us through the temple, where he explained how the temple was dedicated to both the Hindu Gods as well as Buddha. Most of the Buddha statues on the walls were later chiseled off at the behest of a subsequent king. We found an altar stone with the phallic symbol still in place as well as a stone stupa and a beautiful carving of one of the queens down a corridor.

Back outside in the heat we could see huge trees growing over the stone walls and delicately carved apsaras in the lintels above doorways. On the way back to the car we bought a carved mobile of a stork fishing which now hangs proudly in our dining room.

Back in Angkor Tom, people were dancing in the shade of the Banyan Trees and I was sorely tempted to join them. We returned to the Guest House for lunch, then headed off on our photo tour to Tonle Sap and Floating Villages, which was organised through our Guest House.

We followed the Siem Reap River south to Tonle Sap, passing many houses and open country side along the way. The road soon deteriorated to the point where I'd been down better 4WD tracks in Australia, passing along a very long causeway to eventually arrived at the village of Chong Khnies. We travelled by boat down the lake, passing many fish traps along the way. The boat was tailed by many small birds which darted into the water looking for fish disturbed by the boats wake.

We soon arrived at Kompong Plouk, where we passed between floating houses built of bamboo and similar. Life living on the water must be amazing; dogs, pigs, chickens and people all sharing their house together. There were also many crocodile pens floating in the water containing crocs of differing sizes.

We continued passing in between the houses, stopping at one house for a chat and to purchase various food items from the grocery woman in her small boat. I guess people learn at a very young age the danger of the water, or how to swim as there were infants walking freely on the houses 2 metres above the water with no railings, and young children rowing boats between the houses.

We returned back the same path to Chong Khnies, heading into the wind resulting in most everybody on board the boat getting soaked. It was actually drier sitting up on the bow, whilst the remaining people in the boat found what shelter they could from the spray behind coats and life jackets. We visited the Gecko Centre, which had displays on the various wildlife, flora and fishing of Tonle Sap. We even passed a floating Catholic Church!

After watching a glorious sunset over the lake, we returned to the shore and were accosted by small children begging. This was probably the worst place for begging that I had come across in Cambodia. There was a little begging in Siem Reap and around the temples from people disabled from the war but usually people were selling things rather than outright begging. Here, small children were walking around hands outstretched asking for money.

New Year celebrations were in full swing, with lots of loud music and colourful lights, the trip back to Siem Reap especially memorable for the many houses along the way lit with many coloured lights similar to Christmas back home.