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Showing posts with label hue. Show all posts
Showing posts with label hue. Show all posts

Friday, 2 April 2004

Hue and the Purple Citadel




Today Cuong picked us up at 9 after we finished a buffet breakfast at the hotel. We visited the Imperial Citadel, a city built for the emperors of Vietnam. As we looked at the sacred canons, a young girl and boy approached us to participate in a survey, which was looking at understanding tourists and what could be done to improve tourism to Hue. We were happy to participate, and we took turns photographing each other.


We climbed the steps above the entrance gate to the Watchtower, which gave us views across the lotus flower filled moats to the Flag Tower. The Vietnamese Flag has flown here since 1975, but many people died in the previous years to have their flag flown from this vantage point. As we walked through the halls above the gates, past the typical bell and drum of the pagodas, some old Vietnamese woman were entranced by Liam, and insisted on having their photo taken with him. The dresses they wore were splendid and very regal looking.


From the top of the Ngo Mon Gate, sitting on top of the huge thick stone walls of the Citadel we could see the Palace inside. A lot of the Citadel was destroyed by the various wars, with a lot of damage still visible from the Tet Offensive where 15,000 soldiers were killed. Much of the Citadel has also been renovated - and it is quite beautiful. There was lots of mosaic work done with broken pottery adourning the gates.


The Right House had a lovely bonsai garden and ponds filled with fish out front. A man played melodiously on a flute as we entered. The house was filled with models of ships and royal robes and various other displays of the past.


Liam fed the fish in the various ponds throughout the citadel; the fish were huge. We continued walking through the citadel, passing into the Forbidden Purple City. Unfortunately most of the buildings here were destroyed by fire in 1947.


We passed a huge snake as it slid across the road in front of us as we walked from one old building and palace to another. The Queen's residence was sadly very run down, but restoration work on the various palaces and pagodas was continuing. A number of the walls held clear reminders of the violent past, with holes in walls where mortars had passed straight through, as well as walls pock-marked with bullet holes.


The restored portions of the citadel were magnificent, with bright blue mosaics of birds bordering gates, and lushly planted gardens.


We spent a good 3 hours walking around and exploring the citadel, finally arriving at the Nine Dynastic Urns, which are intricately decorated with flowers and birds, as well as stray bullet marks.
We walked from the citadel into town and had a fantastic lunch at Lac Thien. The owner was a deaf mute who has 7 children - the first 6 were girls and the last one a boy. He was very happy to get that boy! The food was magnificent and on the walls was the "Get Away" crew's message. Liam wrote on the wall as well, and was given a special bottle opener.



After lunch, we picked up a few antique Vietnamese and Chinese coins from Mr Coin, and headed into town, walking past many shops looking for a pair of sunglasses for Liam and a belt for myself. Liam was offered a baby to hold! We were worried he was going to drop him, as he was a pretty solid looking baby! We then walked through the market and we bought some custard apples and some mangoes. Liam was dragged off by some women at the market, who fed him some sort of sweet sugary powder, probably sugar cane. We had some free time in the afternoon, so Liam and Michelle went swimming in the hotel pool.


We went to Omar Khayyams for dinner, a really nice Indian Restaurant, but Liam was starting to feel quite sick, either from the mysterious treat given to him at the market, or from some of the pool water that he swallowed, or maybe the same bug that had affected Michelle the day before. We quickly finished our dinner, which really was very nice and rescued Liam from the toilet, walking back to the hotel were Liam spent most of the night throwing up, poor soul.

Thursday, 1 April 2004

Hue what a lovely place



We woke early with the train still rocking along. We passed through some lovely green countryside, at times quite close to the mountains. We went through a number of tunnels, some of which had caves with stalactites visible as we rumbled through!. We stopped at a few stations where people madly tried to sell fruits and food through the train windows and we crossed a number of lovely rivers where we could see lift nets used to catch shrimps.
Michelle and Liam had struggled through the night to use the pit toilet at the end of train, trying desperately not to slip and fall into the hole as the train rocked back and forth only to later find out that the other end of the train had a normal Western style toilet!
Breakfast was a choice of pork bun or BBQ beef instant noodles, which was quite tasty. The instant noodles were very spicy.


We arrived in Hue shortly after 10:30 and it was hot! We took a taxi to the Festival Hue Hotel, and settled into our room. We had a nice lunch at the hotel by the pool; crab and mushroom soup for Michelle and I, and Liam had French Fries with mayonnaise as he didn't like his vegetable soup; though we found it quite delicious.


Liam had a quick dip in the pool before we went for our boat trip on the Perfume River. The boats looked great all lined up at the side of the river, with a flock of ducklings swimming in between them. We met the lovely mother and daughter who were our captains and cooks.


The river cruise was beautiful. Heading up the river we could see people dredging sand and pebbles from the river bottom, their heavily laden boats barely above the water as they traveled back to drop off their load of sand at the shore to collect a hard earned 100,000VND per boat load.
We continued up river to Minh Mangs Mausoleum, which featured the most magnificent gardens and lakes. We walked through some beautiful temples and courtyards and could see the hillside in which Minh Mang is reported to be buried.
Water Buffalo were playing in the water as we returned to the boat and made our way to Thien Mu Pagoda. It was starting to get a little dark, and a light rain was falling as we had a quick look around the complex. Michelle was starting to feel a little seedy, an omen for things to come. The pagoda was very peaceful with the Buddhist monks all sitting down for their dinner.


Michelle was starting to feel worse, so We returned to the dock where Michelle caught a taxi back to the hotel. The boat returned to the middle of the river where it dropped anchor near the Hue Citadel and Liam and I sat down to the most delicious feast of fish, pork, beef, chips, water spinach and peanuts and rice. It was indescribably magnificent as the boat floated gently in the middle of the river with the lights of Hue as a backdrop.