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Thursday, 30 September 2004

Mallee and the Border Track



We had an early morning walk to The Lookout, which was an enjoyable walk through the desert. I spotted a large kangaroo on the way back to the campground and we also spotted some emu tracks in the sand.


We had bacon and eggs again for breakfast, well at least I did, I think the kids had cereal. It was just before 10:00AM and we were packed up and heading off down Centre Track. We had changed our original plan to drive along Border Track based on the advice Peter had received. I was sure it was most likely OK, but I didn't fancy being stuck on my own in the sand if the worst happened, nor did I fancy my chances of being able to find a decent tree to be able to winch off. Even though we later found out the track would have been fine, I really enjoyed driving along Centre Track, which had great views as the track seemed to endless pass into the horizon as we climbed the top of each successive sand dune.


We stopped off at Nanam Well along the way, a 58 metre deep well which was used to water 61,000 sheep which were grazed here in the 1870's


We joined back up with the Border Track, travelling up and down a number of dunes. I checked the roofrack a number of times as I could hear some noises, suspecting that something had come loose but found everything tied down securly. It was a few minutes later that I was to have the whole roofrack slip forward and come off, scratching and denting the top of the car, and causing nearly $4,000 worth of damage. It wasn't much fun removing everything and refitting the roofrack again in the heat and persistant flies either, but it wasn't able to put a damper on such a great trip.


We spotted a goanna as we got back onto the track, and Peter and his daughter passed us as well, generously offering to help out and letting us know they met up with a convoy who had done the Border Track without any problems.


We stopped in at Red Bluff campground, intending to have lunch. We weren't really hungry at all, so we had a quick look at the Bluff, said our farewells to Peter and Melissa and started on our homeward journey. The last portion of the Border Track before Blue Hills Road was very rutted, with numerous BogHoles but we were always able to find a bypass track. I hopped out of the car to inspect the first rutted area to find a way through but gave up on the rutted track ahead, due to the soft sandy subsurface, which would very likely have resulted in the car slipping into the deep embankment, which a previous car had already done judging by the blue paint on the embankment wall!
We eventually left the Border Track, pumping up the tyres and heading into Nhill to refuel, only to find the Shell Service Station closed! So we continued to Dimboola to fill up on diesel as well as dinner before our long trip back down the Western Highway to home.

Wednesday, 29 September 2004

Mallee and the Border Track



We packed up camp early and were in the car driving across the island by 8:00am. I had wanted to visit Kulkurna Cliffs, but according to the map it was about a 20km trip and we would have to come back the same 20km, so we left them for another time. We passed a few kangaroos along the track, including one with a very cute joey.
We started off our trip down the border at Border Fence Road, which we missed to start with as the border to South Australia was unmarked. Curses not having my laptop! Next time we travel along here we'll start right from the top near Border Cliffs, and do the full border navigation, as we had to divert from the Border Track further along, as detailed below.
The track surface had changed from the slate grey of Lindsay Island to a desert red/orange as we headed south along the border. We pulled off near a tree to cook up some breakfast; the kids were starting to get sick of bacon and eggs. Well, James doesn't even like eggs, but I guess a few days of bacon sandwiches does get boring, though we did have porridge with honey one morning.


As we continued south, the track surface changed from the dark orange, almost red to soft yellow sands.
You could really appreciate the powers of irrigation and how much the farmers had changed the land with the native vegetation and desert on the east of the track, and the cleared green pastures on the west of the track.
We diverted from the Border Track near Berrook, and headed east along Sunset Track to visit the Underbool Green Opal Mine site. We had a little trouble finding it at first; damn that laptop again, but after 20 minutes exploring the desert in the heat and flies we returned to the car and headed back along the track, this time spotting the correct turnoff.


With shovel in hand we set off for the walk across the desert to the mine site, battling the flies which were swarming in their thousands. After a couple of kilometres, the mullock heap was visible across the dunes, and it wasn't long before we arrived at the mine site, the shaft collapsed but visible. We spent some time here looking around for opals, finding some interesting rocks with the green colouration, but no real opals to speak of. Still, it was interesting and worth at least one visit.



We continued down Underbool Track and Sunset Road to the highway, which we followed into Murrayville, to stock up on ice and drinks. The kids had earlier asked about seeing camels in the desert, so I explained to them they may spot them in the Simpson, but not around this area, only to see a camel in a paddock on the edge of town!
We rewarded our hot desert walk with an icecream each, and picked up a 24 pack of Pepsi Max for $23, normally $10 at Safeway in the City! and joined up with the Border Track again. The track was getting really sandy and soft as we joined the Border Track proper.

We visited Scorpion Springs where the kids dug down through the sand looking for water. They wanted to stay here for ages, but we had to think about getting to the campsite at Pine Hut Soak, which we did at about 5:00PM. There was another car setting up camp here at the campgropund, and after chatting found out it was the same car we had passed on the banks of the Murray at Ned's Corner. Peter was travelling through the Big Desert area with his daughter Melissa, and they had planned to travel the entire Border Track, but had heard in Murrayville that the section near Scorpion Springs was impassable after rains, which we had experienced a little of.
We had a simple dinner tonight of Hot Dogs and bread, followed by pancakes for desert, then shared the campfire with Peter and Melissa.



Tuesday, 28 September 2004

Mallee and the Border Track



I planned to have a lazy day today with little or no driving. I thought the kids would like to just hang around and avoid sitting in the car, but they were soon bored and wanted to explore a bit. They didn't like the beach here so much, as the sand was quite muddy and silty beneath the top layer, and the river was quite deep so they couldn't go out more than a metre from the bank, so we fed the left over breakfast to the Butcherbirds and thought about what to do today.


After breakfast we jumped in the car and headed down to the Mouth of the Mullaroo, managing to back track and make all the right turns without the laptop, but finding our path thwarted by a collapsed bridge.
We headed back to camp, and spent the day there, going on a short walk hunting down a bird we could hear calling and just relaxing at the campsite reading and enjoying the location and nature. There was a Black Kite nest across the river, and the two kites constantly soarded over the river and our campsite, on one occasion diving down and grabbing some leftovers from the Butcher Bird family who we had befriended.
We spotted quite a few birds here: a Pied Butcherbird and young, Black Kites, Pelicans, Regent Parrots and Mulga Parrots as well as Blue Faced Honeyeaters.

Monday, 27 September 2004

Mallee and the Border Track

Up again with the birds, we took it easy and were in no rush to pack up camp, even though we were on the move today. We had a relaxed bacon & egg breakfast and sat around the campsite feeding the birds.

We eventually got around to packing up camp, under the watchful eyes of the Butcher Bird. A quick game of football and then we were off towards Mildura.

The Hattah Store had signs up protesting the creation of a toxic waste dump nearby. Is this crazy? Why would such a beautiful place, on the border of National Parks be considered as the site for a toxic waste dump????
We stopped in Mildura and stocked up on supplies, had lunch at Hungry Jacks, yuck, and picked up some custard tarts and vanilla slices at the bakery, yum! Time was passing quickly and we visited lock 10 on the Murray.Neither I or the kids had ever seen a lock before, and as a bonus we got to see this one in operation as a small boat was travelling down river.

We arrived at the Perry Sandhills at about 2:30; much later then on our previous trip so I was getting worried that we wouldn't reach camp tonight at a reasonable time. So we cut short our visit here, only staying about 30 minutes. But it was still long enough for the kids to accumulate a few kilos of sand in their shoes and pockets, which ended up in the car, sleeping bags, and all the way back home!
We had to backtrack into Wentworth to get onto the Victorian side of the Murray, and were soon travelling along the Old Mail Route. Though we had spotted a few Stumpy Tails so far, this road was teeming with lizards. James eventually lost count, but we managed to miss every single one of them.
We came to Kulnine near the gate to Ned's Corner, which looked quite a nice spot on the banks of the Murray, but there were already some campers there so we continued on through the gates towards Lindsay Island, passing numerous Wedgetailed Eagles.

We arrived on Lindsay Island at about 4:30, thankfully not too late, and we navigated the tracks through the flat dry muds plains of the island. The track down to Lock number 7 seemed closed by a gate, though there was a track around the gate so we returned and headed down a nearby track to the river.
There were a few people camping along the river bank, but we easily managed to find a really nice spot with lots of shady trees close to the river, complete with a picnic table and a sandy beach. The kids played in the water while I set up camp.
Dinner tonight was a traditional BBQ; very tasty and enjoyable! We sat down to watch a movie on the laptop, but I turned the laptop off as it was booting up, corrupting the hard drive. Not being able to watch a movie wasn't a big deal, but not having anywhere to store my digital photos was a real hassle. Additionally, I was going to be without digital mapping and tracklogging as well! I managed to get the PocketPC connected to the GPS; I didn't have any maps on the PocketPC, but at least I could keep my track logs. Until the batteries died in the PocketPC that is; I hadn't brought the recharger with me. Damn it!


Sunday, 26 September 2004

Mallee and the Border Track

Well, we were woken to the raucous sounds of the Apostle Birds outside our tent, followed soon after by the Choughs. It was like a wave of noise flowing over thetent. We stuck our heads out the tent flap to see them checking around looking for food. It is probably one of my favourite campsites, and the birds are very endearing. We relaxed around the campsite enjoying their company for the morning, sharing a little of our bacon & egg breakfast with the butcher bird.


Shortly after 9 we drove to the nearby Murray River, exploring along it's banks and setting up on a nice beach for the kids to swim. We spent a good 5 hours here, having lunch in the screentent to escape the flies. The kids had a great time playing in the sand and swimming in the shallows.


We continued our drive through Hattah-Kulkyne National Park, looking unsuccessfully for the wreck of the Florence Ann. We explored some dunes near Sextons, with James finding a tumble weed which gave endless entertainment; dragging it across the dunes and letting the wind blow it back. Eventually it rolled over the dunes into the distance with Liam chasing it over the horizon. We also spotted our first stumpy tail for our trip on the road, as well as numerous emus

Back at the campsite it wasn't long before all of the birds came around again. We played a bit of footy, and the kids climbed trees while the friendly Choughs, Butcher Birds, Apostle Birds, and Ravens did their scouring of the campgrounds.

Saturday, 25 September 2004

Mallee and the Border Track

Perry Sand Hills, Wentworth

We left quite late on the Saturday. James was feeling sick on the Friday, and was only a little better on Saturday morning, so we took it easy to wait it out. We left home about 1:30 after some final food shopping. We had to quickly duck back home because I forgot the casserole, but finally we were on the road. Basically we folllowed the Calder, stopping into Bendigo to refuel the car and grab some cash.
We stopped in Wycheproof just after 5 for a leg stretch, viewing the old steam train at the side of the road. This would be a good lunch time stop, with a nice park with bird aviaries with a cocky asking us "How Ya Goin'", historic displays and BBQs
We arrived on the shores of Lake Tyrrell near sunset at 6:15, and did a quick explore near Bailey's Road Lookout.


We arrived at Lake Hattah in the dark around 7:30 and setup camp, finally settling down to dinner at 8:50. James had faired well on the trip up, and had no problems getting stuck into his dinner. We had returned to this campsite specifically as not only is it a very nice and scenic campsite, but last year we were enthralled by the friendly and cheeky birdlife. I'd told James and Liam that we couldn't be sure if the birds would be here like last year, and so not to be too dissapointed. We would have to wait to morning to see...

Sunday, 19 September 2004

Cleft Rock Walking Trip

James, Liam and I went out for a little driving and exploring around near Marysville, as well as planning to walk along the Cleft Rock Walking Track.
We turned off to highway at Dom Dom Saddle Picnic Ground, and headed down Dom Dom Creek Road, which was reasonably steep and slippery in the wet. We passed some walkers and then headed along Dom Dom Road and Fisher Creek Road, coming to the deep bog hole we had encountered on a previous trip. Somebody had put branches across the edge of the hole, as a warning to others and we managed to drive around without any problem. However, we came to grief on another rutted muddy hole around the corner, requiring the winch to get out.


We turned off Archeron Way up White Hill Track, which continued along towards Carters Gap though it wasn't marked on the map. The logging in this area changes the roads and my maps are way out of date.
We passed where Cleft Rock Walking Track intersects with the road, but there was absolutely no sign of any walking track, so we continued to the locked gate at the end of the road and went on foot up the forest roads with some excellent views across back to Dom Dom and the Cathedrals.


The track wound back and forth between the tall gums and fern filled gulleys and eventually we found ourselves at the helicopter clearing, a large cleared grassy area where we relaxed for a bit before exploring further.


There was a sign on the ground indicating that the track was clossed due to logging, but that would have been in reference to the walking track along Road Eight, which we didn't intend following. Our notes indicated two ways to approach Cleft Rock from the hilltop, one from the corner of the clearing, and the second from a walking track that ran along the edge of the clearing.


Neither provided successful. the forest had well and truly reclaimed the walking track, though we did find an occasional track marker there was no sign of any path. I may come back on a more adventurous day, armed with machette and a full day to battle the forest but we had to give up. The walks from Siseman's Melbourne's Mountains are largely falling into disrepair.


We rested in the clearing again, chatting to some walkers from the Diamond Valley Walking Club as Liam licked his wounds from battling the forest.
We continued back down the way we had come, and once at the car headed off in search of somewhere for lunch.


We passed the roadside puddle we had found on a previous trip full of tadpoles, and stopped to collect a new supply. They were smaller this time but we managed to collect a few for our water fountain back home.


I decided that we would have lunch at Keppel Lookout, and we set up our BBQ on the picnic table over looking the views of the Steavenson Valley.


The kids played with the frisbee on the top of the lookout after lunch as I sat back and enjoyed the views.